Galápagos giant tortoises are the only remaining wild population of large tortoises in the Northern Hemisphere’s tropical Pacific, and they are far easier to see than most visitors expect. Unlike the archipelago’s marine species, tortoises are terrestrial, slow moving and concentrated in a small number of accessible habitats, which means a well planned day can … Read more
A Galápagos naturalist cruise is priced per person, per night, in a market where the number of vessels is capped by law. That single regulatory fact explains most of what confuses first time buyers. There are roughly 60 to 70 authorised passenger boats in the archipelago, itineraries are approved by the National Park rather than … Read more
Diving in the Galápagos operates under a two-tier system that has little to do with comfort preferences and everything to do with regulation. A small licensed fleet of dive liveaboards holds permission to visit Darwin and Wolf, the two remote northern islands where hammerhead aggregations and seasonal whale sharks concentrate. Everyone else dives from a … Read more
Darwin and Wolf lie roughly 100 nautical miles northwest of the main Galápagos group, separated from Isabela and Fernandina by an open stretch of Pacific that takes most vessels between 14 and 16 hours to cross. Neither island permits landings. There are no trails, no visitor sites and no day tours — the only lawful … Read more
Everyone comes to the Galapagos for the animals, and then goes home with a camera roll full of landscapes. It makes sense. This is an archipelago built by volcanoes and scraped by the ocean, and the geology is every bit as strange as the wildlife standing on top of it. The problem is that the … Read more
People keep asking which month is the best one to visit the Galapagos, and the honest answer is that there isn’t one. The archipelago never shuts down. What changes is who is putting on the show. Turtles dig nests in January, albatrosses land in April, penguins go hunting in September, and the water swings from … Read more